Don't mess with the paint. An axle tube is over 1/4 inch thick. A little surface rust does not matter. When I bought my 44 and the 87 XJ waggonneer rust bucket that came out of Toledo with it, I was hammering off the scale rust for two days. Then I ran a wire wheel over it and bolted it up. I didn't even change the gear oil. They are serious tough. No Joke. Besides, it will always be in the shadows under your Jeep, so a little blemish here or there won't matter.
Before you cut the old one off, double check the oil seals at each axle end and the pinion yoke too. if anything leaks now it is a bit easier to attend to on your bench than it would be under the Jeep. Pinion seal is about $10 (Buy 2 if it is your first one - you are likely to screw one up putting it back in) Use plenty of RTV. You also might want to take a look inside the cover, just to check, and fill with clean 90 wt. Also check the breather tube on the Driver side, that it is not gunked up. It comes straight up from the brake T.
When you swap it in, extend that line up to near your gas filler spout and put an old XJ gas filter on the end. The filter will allow gasses to escape but keep mud and water out of that vent line forever. Besides, when was the last time your fuel filter was changed, anyway? That could help your mileage too.
As for your theoretical question, as you add bigger tires, you are actually travelling faster than your spedo reads, and farther thn your Odometer reads. Your math may say 16, but with the larger tires, it might be closer to 18. As you gear up, that ratio comes closer to 1:1 (4.56 with 33 is closer to stock) (4.56 with 31 is over geared, you will feel a big difference pulling off of the line, but actually be travelling slower than the speedo says, etc...) There are good charts available online for figuring all of this out for real. Start there.
The dial indicator needs to have a strong electro magnet for the base, and adjustable arms for positioning. I don't know what you were looking at at Napa, but it should be something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-H3022-Magnetic-Indicator-Caliper/dp/B0000DD4GB/ref=pd_cp_hi_3 They are not too much, but they will save you in the long run. You can use the Kendall blue grease for checking the pattern, so save the money on the paint.
I would really crawl through the yellow pages for a welder to raise the shock mounts. It is a ten minute job for them when it is out of the vehicle. Later on, you will not be able to get good penetration if he can't move all around it. You can also add tie points to the rear axle at the same time. I will get a pic of mine for you.
Before you cut the old one off, double check the oil seals at each axle end and the pinion yoke too. if anything leaks now it is a bit easier to attend to on your bench than it would be under the Jeep. Pinion seal is about $10 (Buy 2 if it is your first one - you are likely to screw one up putting it back in) Use plenty of RTV. You also might want to take a look inside the cover, just to check, and fill with clean 90 wt. Also check the breather tube on the Driver side, that it is not gunked up. It comes straight up from the brake T.
When you swap it in, extend that line up to near your gas filler spout and put an old XJ gas filter on the end. The filter will allow gasses to escape but keep mud and water out of that vent line forever. Besides, when was the last time your fuel filter was changed, anyway? That could help your mileage too.
As for your theoretical question, as you add bigger tires, you are actually travelling faster than your spedo reads, and farther thn your Odometer reads. Your math may say 16, but with the larger tires, it might be closer to 18. As you gear up, that ratio comes closer to 1:1 (4.56 with 33 is closer to stock) (4.56 with 31 is over geared, you will feel a big difference pulling off of the line, but actually be travelling slower than the speedo says, etc...) There are good charts available online for figuring all of this out for real. Start there.
The dial indicator needs to have a strong electro magnet for the base, and adjustable arms for positioning. I don't know what you were looking at at Napa, but it should be something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-H3022-Magnetic-Indicator-Caliper/dp/B0000DD4GB/ref=pd_cp_hi_3 They are not too much, but they will save you in the long run. You can use the Kendall blue grease for checking the pattern, so save the money on the paint.
I would really crawl through the yellow pages for a welder to raise the shock mounts. It is a ten minute job for them when it is out of the vehicle. Later on, you will not be able to get good penetration if he can't move all around it. You can also add tie points to the rear axle at the same time. I will get a pic of mine for you.
www.amazon.com
This kit was put together by the President of Grizzly as a special way of thanking our customers for over 20 years of loyalty. Kit includes a 6" Dial Caliper (.001"), a Magnetic Base with fine adjustment, and a 1" dial indicator measures in .001". This is absolutely the... most incredible buy in the US...
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