It has been my pleasure. I get so caught up in my projects, I have enjoyed helping you with yours.
I spent last night digging through the engine bay of my Willys after the fire. It was pretty nasty. Some plastics just melted, others caught fire, then some turned into ooze. It has been hell scraping it off of important parts.
After i cleaned it all out, i pulled the old military air box and wiring. I rewired the Jeep with clean (non-singed) wires and took stock of what I need to replace. I re-sprayed the engine bay and some metal bits with Krylon and made it look presentable. In all of my cheapness, I am now using a shock boot for an air duct, and i have no washer reservoir any more (it developed a hole), but the Jeep could certainly have been worse off. My friend really saved me coming by when he did.
Now I am focusing on cleaning out the last remnants of the dry chemical (friends say that it will remove paint if left on) and preparing to mask and repaint the hood and cowl where the blistering occurred. That might not be until next weekend. I have a safety class to teach on Saturday about hi-lift jacks as a part of the VJA Safety day.
-bc
Thursday, April 29, 2010
Jeep fire and real friends.
So it was a nice day for April, and I thought, "Why not?" I would take my '55 to get my daughter from daycare in the village. It was a five mile trip, and I felt confident. I loaded my son in the Jeep and set out.
I had been having trouble with the fuel filter clogging, and had been replacing them regularly, so I installed a cutoff valve. I forgot to open it up.
I ran out of gas in front of my neighbor's driveway.
No big deal, Splash some gas down the carb to re prime it and I'd be off in a jiffy.
I was wrong.
I flooded it, the carb dripped down the engine block and when I tried to start it, a spark caught the gas. It started slowly. I first noticed some smoke, then flames. I got my son out of the Jeep, and shut everything down as much as possible. I had no fire extinguisher with me, and my garage was too far to run for.
Then the cavalry arrived. Dave, a neighbor of mine, and fellow Jeeper happened by on his way home from work. He stopped and watched my son while I went for the fire extinguisher in his car. It was great to have someone pass by whom you could trust like that. There were no questions asked, or worries on either of our parts as I sped away for help, leaving him and my two-year-old on the side of the road watching as the Jeep burned.
I was back minutes later. The extinguisher worked like a charm. The fire was out in a matter of seconds. All were safe, and the crisis was over. Mostly.
He brought us home with enough time to return to the scene to meet the fire chief whom a passer-by had called. A few assurances and an inspection later, he sounded the end of call tones for the approaching engines.
The Jeep? well, there is not much to burn on a old Willys. There is no sound proofing, no insulation. The fire was limited to the distributor, the heater hoses, and some wires. I might have to repaint the hood and cowl, but 90% of the Jeep is fine, and the rest will come along in due time.
I was just lucky that Dave arrived when he did. I owe him a lot for doing what he did.
In case you didn't know, Jeepers are a close bunch. The VJA in particular has done a great job of bringing together a trusted group of people. I don't know of any other civic organizations that would build the level of trust between members required for all of this to happen and end as well as it did.
I had been having trouble with the fuel filter clogging, and had been replacing them regularly, so I installed a cutoff valve. I forgot to open it up.
I ran out of gas in front of my neighbor's driveway.
No big deal, Splash some gas down the carb to re prime it and I'd be off in a jiffy.
I was wrong.
I flooded it, the carb dripped down the engine block and when I tried to start it, a spark caught the gas. It started slowly. I first noticed some smoke, then flames. I got my son out of the Jeep, and shut everything down as much as possible. I had no fire extinguisher with me, and my garage was too far to run for.
Then the cavalry arrived. Dave, a neighbor of mine, and fellow Jeeper happened by on his way home from work. He stopped and watched my son while I went for the fire extinguisher in his car. It was great to have someone pass by whom you could trust like that. There were no questions asked, or worries on either of our parts as I sped away for help, leaving him and my two-year-old on the side of the road watching as the Jeep burned.
I was back minutes later. The extinguisher worked like a charm. The fire was out in a matter of seconds. All were safe, and the crisis was over. Mostly.
He brought us home with enough time to return to the scene to meet the fire chief whom a passer-by had called. A few assurances and an inspection later, he sounded the end of call tones for the approaching engines.
The Jeep? well, there is not much to burn on a old Willys. There is no sound proofing, no insulation. The fire was limited to the distributor, the heater hoses, and some wires. I might have to repaint the hood and cowl, but 90% of the Jeep is fine, and the rest will come along in due time.
I was just lucky that Dave arrived when he did. I owe him a lot for doing what he did.
In case you didn't know, Jeepers are a close bunch. The VJA in particular has done a great job of bringing together a trusted group of people. I don't know of any other civic organizations that would build the level of trust between members required for all of this to happen and end as well as it did.
Tuesday, April 27, 2010
Axle shims and life
If your axle has some sort of rubber hose at the ends you should be OK. It just needs to flex a bit in case you need to service the brakes. I used my old front lines because I am cheap and they were just sitting there.
You add shims if you want to. My original lift came with them (1/4 inch to 0 - I believe they are 15 degree shims) so I installed them. They do more to compensate for the driveshaft angle by tilting the nose up. You are addressing that issue with the SYE and new DS. So the shims are less necessary. If you have them, run them, they won't hurt.
I can manhandle a rear axle pretty well, the fronts are certainly a two man job. If you have access to a wheelbarrow or hand truck use it, then put it on the floor jack for final positioning.
Good luck with the family start. Pregnancy is ok, but the first two years are the bugger. Until the tyke develops language, they are trying to be around for me. Diapers come with the terrain, but the whole guessing-at-what-they-want thing is a lesson in patience.
Unplug the ABS light. Unplug the check engine light as well while you are in there. It will alleviate a million headaches. Otherwise, invest in a OBDII reader. It can clear any trouble codes right before you go for inspection.
You add shims if you want to. My original lift came with them (1/4 inch to 0 - I believe they are 15 degree shims) so I installed them. They do more to compensate for the driveshaft angle by tilting the nose up. You are addressing that issue with the SYE and new DS. So the shims are less necessary. If you have them, run them, they won't hurt.
I can manhandle a rear axle pretty well, the fronts are certainly a two man job. If you have access to a wheelbarrow or hand truck use it, then put it on the floor jack for final positioning.
Good luck with the family start. Pregnancy is ok, but the first two years are the bugger. Until the tyke develops language, they are trying to be around for me. Diapers come with the terrain, but the whole guessing-at-what-they-want thing is a lesson in patience.
Unplug the ABS light. Unplug the check engine light as well while you are in there. It will alleviate a million headaches. Otherwise, invest in a OBDII reader. It can clear any trouble codes right before you go for inspection.
Heavy suckers...
Thanks brian. When I got the axle it was already drained. Just a good coating of old oil remained so it was not left dry. It spins freely when I turn the yoke as well as when I turn the shaft ends. No squeaks, grinds, or sounds. Though when I spoin the shaft ends of the one side, the other side does not always spin. Either side will spin freely; just not always together. I am assuming this has to do with the limited slip and the weight of the components allow the other side to slip sometimes? I think it is fine as when I turn the yoke and apply pressure to each side both shafts spin.
The axle did not come with pads; but I pciked up a set at NAPA and have the brakes/rotors installed. They all fit fine. I have not figured out how the parking brake will connect yet; but I have set the brake adjusters to the rotors. Currenty the brakes have short, 5 inch rubber brake lines that connect to a mounting bracket which connect to the hard lines. I am not sure where these mounting brackets would attach; but I am guessing that I could do away with the short lines completly by using my old front lines to attach instead.
I also think I should add shims to the leafs this time. When I originally installe the axle, I did not knowing I was planning to swap out the axle in the future and wanted to get it up and running. Then I had to add boomerang shackles to get the original shackles off the unibody since the leafs I put on are a few inches longer. This added another 1.25 inches of lift to the rear. Both ends are level - though neither have broken in at this time. Do you know what degree of shims I should add or how I figure this out? Once the axle is mounted, the next step will be the SYE and driveshaft, which I am not sure how will effect the degree of shims needed? Can I figure it out now and add the correct shim degree so I do not need to bolt it all up and then get another set of U bolts to re-bolt it back together when I do the SYE and CV driveshaft?
Yes; the actual bolting up of the axle should be pretty easy - except for one thing... The axle is in the middle of my garage on a work bench frame. I had help putting it into the XJ when I bought it, but to get it out I was on my own. (And I am no stronger now that I was at Elon.) It was actually pretty amusing to watch me maneuver the axle out of the jeep; but I got it out myself and had to dransfer it directly onto the workbench frame b/c I could not hold it myselft to lower it to jackstands. I was then able to drag the workbench with the axle rested on it, up the remainder of the driveway and across the garage where I have been playing w/ it. I have very few freinds out here. The few I have all live 45 minutes - 2 hrs away; so they do not make it over often. I plan to have one that I surf with help me relocate it onto stands on the side of the garage. Then I can get to work. Once on stands I should be able to inch the axle around the garage myself and install it myself as I did the 35. (I hope) Michelle is prego so this is a one man job. So as for that 4 hrs, probably gona take me a bit more.
As soon as I pass smog, I am going to put the axle on. I do not want to take the chance of having the ABS light on when i take it to be smogged.
Thanks
The axle did not come with pads; but I pciked up a set at NAPA and have the brakes/rotors installed. They all fit fine. I have not figured out how the parking brake will connect yet; but I have set the brake adjusters to the rotors. Currenty the brakes have short, 5 inch rubber brake lines that connect to a mounting bracket which connect to the hard lines. I am not sure where these mounting brackets would attach; but I am guessing that I could do away with the short lines completly by using my old front lines to attach instead.
I also think I should add shims to the leafs this time. When I originally installe the axle, I did not knowing I was planning to swap out the axle in the future and wanted to get it up and running. Then I had to add boomerang shackles to get the original shackles off the unibody since the leafs I put on are a few inches longer. This added another 1.25 inches of lift to the rear. Both ends are level - though neither have broken in at this time. Do you know what degree of shims I should add or how I figure this out? Once the axle is mounted, the next step will be the SYE and driveshaft, which I am not sure how will effect the degree of shims needed? Can I figure it out now and add the correct shim degree so I do not need to bolt it all up and then get another set of U bolts to re-bolt it back together when I do the SYE and CV driveshaft?
Yes; the actual bolting up of the axle should be pretty easy - except for one thing... The axle is in the middle of my garage on a work bench frame. I had help putting it into the XJ when I bought it, but to get it out I was on my own. (And I am no stronger now that I was at Elon.) It was actually pretty amusing to watch me maneuver the axle out of the jeep; but I got it out myself and had to dransfer it directly onto the workbench frame b/c I could not hold it myselft to lower it to jackstands. I was then able to drag the workbench with the axle rested on it, up the remainder of the driveway and across the garage where I have been playing w/ it. I have very few freinds out here. The few I have all live 45 minutes - 2 hrs away; so they do not make it over often. I plan to have one that I surf with help me relocate it onto stands on the side of the garage. Then I can get to work. Once on stands I should be able to inch the axle around the garage myself and install it myself as I did the 35. (I hope) Michelle is prego so this is a one man job. So as for that 4 hrs, probably gona take me a bit more.
As soon as I pass smog, I am going to put the axle on. I do not want to take the chance of having the ABS light on when i take it to be smogged.
Thanks
Axle parts and pieces
You do not remove the pinion shaft, you remove that big nut and pull off the yoke (the part your U-joint attaches to). If there is gear oil in it and it is not leaking, leave it the hell alone. Playing with it is not in the realm of "preventative maintenance", only "convenience if yours is bad"
If you do it anyhow, the gears are not affected by removing the yoke.
Second question... NO
There are no bearings that require attention in your axle. They are all five lubricated by the gear oil that is in the pumpkin. All you should do is lay one side of the axle down hill for ten minutes to let the oil run down, then do the same for the other side before bolting it up. You can not access the bearings without pulling the shafts and the pinion. Again, if something wasn't right (binding, squeaking, rattling, lots of rust dust) you should attend to it now, rather than later. If everything looks good, then leave it alone. You should be able to freely (it is heavy) move the axle shafts back and forth. Likewise on the pinion yoke. If it all rotates without squeaking or grinding to a halt, then rest assured. All is well.
Your axle came out of an 87, not an 88. It was not offered that year.
Sealed bearing is the wrong name. They are regular caged bearings all around. You can hand pack them with grease, but not without pulling everything apart to do it. Then, the grease would expel itself in ten minutes on the road and be replaced by the gear oil that is supposed to be there. All of them will be wasted by removing them, so don't try. They will either need to be pressed back on, or you runthe risk of wallowing out the holes if you do it with a hammer. The races that are in the axletubes will be stuck as well. Don't try it unless there is a problem.
You can and should double check the parking brakes, the caliper pads, and that you have the right fittings to attach it to your Jeep. I used stock Cherokee front hoses to add a flexible end to the caliper (makes it easier to service it if you are not bending lines to remove the calipers - see pictures) You could do that. Maybe you could change the diff fluid, pull the cover and clean it all out with brake cleaner, that could be good as well. Then use RTV to reinstall the cover. It is easier and cheaper than the real cover gaskets.
Other than that, you should just stick it under there and go for a drive. If you have a good set of tall jack stands (under the frame raising both back tires off the ground) and an angle grinder for the u-bolts, just do it. You would have it done by now for all of the e-mailing you have written me.
Cut the old one off, pulling drive shafts and brake lines before. Then lower it balanced on your floor jack. Put the new one up on the floor jack and raise it into place. Attach using the u-bolts, torque appropriately, cut off the excess thread, and bleed your brakes. Insert driveshaft and crack beer. it is really that easy.
Now get to it. for me, two hours, for you, budget four. It still can easily be accomplished in a free evening if the weather is good. Offer free beer and pizza to friends who show up.
-bc
If you do it anyhow, the gears are not affected by removing the yoke.
Second question... NO
There are no bearings that require attention in your axle. They are all five lubricated by the gear oil that is in the pumpkin. All you should do is lay one side of the axle down hill for ten minutes to let the oil run down, then do the same for the other side before bolting it up. You can not access the bearings without pulling the shafts and the pinion. Again, if something wasn't right (binding, squeaking, rattling, lots of rust dust) you should attend to it now, rather than later. If everything looks good, then leave it alone. You should be able to freely (it is heavy) move the axle shafts back and forth. Likewise on the pinion yoke. If it all rotates without squeaking or grinding to a halt, then rest assured. All is well.
Your axle came out of an 87, not an 88. It was not offered that year.
Sealed bearing is the wrong name. They are regular caged bearings all around. You can hand pack them with grease, but not without pulling everything apart to do it. Then, the grease would expel itself in ten minutes on the road and be replaced by the gear oil that is supposed to be there. All of them will be wasted by removing them, so don't try. They will either need to be pressed back on, or you runthe risk of wallowing out the holes if you do it with a hammer. The races that are in the axletubes will be stuck as well. Don't try it unless there is a problem.
You can and should double check the parking brakes, the caliper pads, and that you have the right fittings to attach it to your Jeep. I used stock Cherokee front hoses to add a flexible end to the caliper (makes it easier to service it if you are not bending lines to remove the calipers - see pictures) You could do that. Maybe you could change the diff fluid, pull the cover and clean it all out with brake cleaner, that could be good as well. Then use RTV to reinstall the cover. It is easier and cheaper than the real cover gaskets.
Other than that, you should just stick it under there and go for a drive. If you have a good set of tall jack stands (under the frame raising both back tires off the ground) and an angle grinder for the u-bolts, just do it. You would have it done by now for all of the e-mailing you have written me.
Cut the old one off, pulling drive shafts and brake lines before. Then lower it balanced on your floor jack. Put the new one up on the floor jack and raise it into place. Attach using the u-bolts, torque appropriately, cut off the excess thread, and bleed your brakes. Insert driveshaft and crack beer. it is really that easy.
Now get to it. for me, two hours, for you, budget four. It still can easily be accomplished in a free evening if the weather is good. Offer free beer and pizza to friends who show up.
-bc
Bearings and pinions
Hey Brian - Ready for some more stupid questions...
I do not see any signs of oil leakage at the pinion seal. However since the axle is off now, is it worth just replacing the pinion seal and nut now? I read the haines about this and it noted that I will need to remove the pinion shaft to get at the pinion seal. Keeping in mind that I know relativelying nothing about how an axle works (yet)... when I remove the pinion shaft, will anything happen to the gears? I am trying to not have to getinvolved with setting the gears at this time, any I just want to make sute nothing else will "fall out" when I remove the pinion shaft.
Next question, I do not know much about bearings; other than they require grease, some are rebuildable and some are not. I know that the onese that are rebuildable should be re-packed after each wheeeling trip and since the I do not know of the prior conditions of this axle, if re-buildable, it is worth re-packing/checking the condition of the bearings. I know the bearings on the 35 are not re-buildable. What about what would have came stock on the 1988 XJ D44? The bad part is, I do not know how to tell if my bearijngs are re-buildable or not. When the bearings do fail, if non-rebuildable, I plan to put re-buildable ones in instead; but would prefer not to have this expense at the moment if the current sealed ones are fine.
I do not see any signs of oil leakage at the pinion seal. However since the axle is off now, is it worth just replacing the pinion seal and nut now? I read the haines about this and it noted that I will need to remove the pinion shaft to get at the pinion seal. Keeping in mind that I know relativelying nothing about how an axle works (yet)... when I remove the pinion shaft, will anything happen to the gears? I am trying to not have to getinvolved with setting the gears at this time, any I just want to make sute nothing else will "fall out" when I remove the pinion shaft.
Next question, I do not know much about bearings; other than they require grease, some are rebuildable and some are not. I know that the onese that are rebuildable should be re-packed after each wheeeling trip and since the I do not know of the prior conditions of this axle, if re-buildable, it is worth re-packing/checking the condition of the bearings. I know the bearings on the 35 are not re-buildable. What about what would have came stock on the 1988 XJ D44? The bad part is, I do not know how to tell if my bearijngs are re-buildable or not. When the bearings do fail, if non-rebuildable, I plan to put re-buildable ones in instead; but would prefer not to have this expense at the moment if the current sealed ones are fine.
Trading pictures of D-44 set up
New axle in perspective
Don't mess with the paint. An axle tube is over 1/4 inch thick. A little surface rust does not matter. When I bought my 44 and the 87 XJ waggonneer rust bucket that came out of Toledo with it, I was hammering off the scale rust for two days. Then I ran a wire wheel over it and bolted it up. I didn't even change the gear oil. They are serious tough. No Joke. Besides, it will always be in the shadows under your Jeep, so a little blemish here or there won't matter.
Before you cut the old one off, double check the oil seals at each axle end and the pinion yoke too. if anything leaks now it is a bit easier to attend to on your bench than it would be under the Jeep. Pinion seal is about $10 (Buy 2 if it is your first one - you are likely to screw one up putting it back in) Use plenty of RTV. You also might want to take a look inside the cover, just to check, and fill with clean 90 wt. Also check the breather tube on the Driver side, that it is not gunked up. It comes straight up from the brake T.
When you swap it in, extend that line up to near your gas filler spout and put an old XJ gas filter on the end. The filter will allow gasses to escape but keep mud and water out of that vent line forever. Besides, when was the last time your fuel filter was changed, anyway? That could help your mileage too.
As for your theoretical question, as you add bigger tires, you are actually travelling faster than your spedo reads, and farther thn your Odometer reads. Your math may say 16, but with the larger tires, it might be closer to 18. As you gear up, that ratio comes closer to 1:1 (4.56 with 33 is closer to stock) (4.56 with 31 is over geared, you will feel a big difference pulling off of the line, but actually be travelling slower than the speedo says, etc...) There are good charts available online for figuring all of this out for real. Start there.
The dial indicator needs to have a strong electro magnet for the base, and adjustable arms for positioning. I don't know what you were looking at at Napa, but it should be something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-H3022-Magnetic-Indicator-Caliper/dp/B0000DD4GB/ref=pd_cp_hi_3 They are not too much, but they will save you in the long run. You can use the Kendall blue grease for checking the pattern, so save the money on the paint.
I would really crawl through the yellow pages for a welder to raise the shock mounts. It is a ten minute job for them when it is out of the vehicle. Later on, you will not be able to get good penetration if he can't move all around it. You can also add tie points to the rear axle at the same time. I will get a pic of mine for you.
Before you cut the old one off, double check the oil seals at each axle end and the pinion yoke too. if anything leaks now it is a bit easier to attend to on your bench than it would be under the Jeep. Pinion seal is about $10 (Buy 2 if it is your first one - you are likely to screw one up putting it back in) Use plenty of RTV. You also might want to take a look inside the cover, just to check, and fill with clean 90 wt. Also check the breather tube on the Driver side, that it is not gunked up. It comes straight up from the brake T.
When you swap it in, extend that line up to near your gas filler spout and put an old XJ gas filter on the end. The filter will allow gasses to escape but keep mud and water out of that vent line forever. Besides, when was the last time your fuel filter was changed, anyway? That could help your mileage too.
As for your theoretical question, as you add bigger tires, you are actually travelling faster than your spedo reads, and farther thn your Odometer reads. Your math may say 16, but with the larger tires, it might be closer to 18. As you gear up, that ratio comes closer to 1:1 (4.56 with 33 is closer to stock) (4.56 with 31 is over geared, you will feel a big difference pulling off of the line, but actually be travelling slower than the speedo says, etc...) There are good charts available online for figuring all of this out for real. Start there.
The dial indicator needs to have a strong electro magnet for the base, and adjustable arms for positioning. I don't know what you were looking at at Napa, but it should be something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-H3022-Magnetic-Indicator-Caliper/dp/B0000DD4GB/ref=pd_cp_hi_3 They are not too much, but they will save you in the long run. You can use the Kendall blue grease for checking the pattern, so save the money on the paint.
I would really crawl through the yellow pages for a welder to raise the shock mounts. It is a ten minute job for them when it is out of the vehicle. Later on, you will not be able to get good penetration if he can't move all around it. You can also add tie points to the rear axle at the same time. I will get a pic of mine for you.
www.amazon.com
This kit was put together by the President of Grizzly as a special way of thanking our customers for over 20 years of loyalty. Kit includes a 6" Dial Caliper (.001"), a Magnetic Base with fine adjustment, and a 1" dial indicator measures in .001". This is absolutely the... most incredible buy in the US...
See MoreNew Axle sittin' there, gotta do something.
Hey Brian - When I started opening up the axle and taking playing with it, I realized I know nothing about axles. Which was exciting; b/c 1 hour later, I knew a bit more. The axle was a price I could justify affording right now since I needed new brakes anyway, and I really wanted to convert to disk anyway. (Plus last weekend while Michelle and I were driving up to see her parents, we passed an XJ w/ 33s that had rearended the car infront of him on the shoulder of the highway. The rear of the car was smashed good; but the front of the XJ with a nice solid off road bumper looked to be flawless as we drive by. I told Michelle that he must have drum brakes; she was supportive of the brake upgrade.)
I do not have a welder; but this is something I plan to research and invest in within the next year or so. Nothing big; but I do want one with some of the more "automatic" features I seem some come with. I will wait to re-do the axle mounts until I have some more experience with welding.
I purchased a brake hardware kit from NAPA and a set of new U bolts yesterday when I was passing by the company that made my lift.
The paint job is pretty shotty. So I assume it did not look pretty for him to paint the axle as he did. Is it worth grinding the shaft and housing down with a wire brush grinder attachment to bring it to a bare steel finish, and then re-painting it? If it was not painted in the first place I probably would have just bolted it up; but since it has a half ass job on it now, I am more prone to re-doing it. Not so much as to make it look all pretty. But there are places where he painted over dirt I can see in tight crevices. I wonder if he just brusted off the axle and slopped on some paint.
I have a lot of other stuff this weekend to do; but I really want to start working on the axle this weekend.
I checked out dial indicators at NAPA yesterday. They had them at $24 - $40. Am I looking at the wrong type of dial indicator for gearing. I thought htey would be mroe expensice. Looked like a turkey thermometer from the picture on the monitor.
I am going to leave the gearing as is for now while the jeep is also serving as a DD. At some point, I would like to re-gear; but probably not for a year or so. I must say though, I put 31 BFG ATs on for commuting as I have been driving back and forth to LA and Orange County a lot the last monh. The power really sux even w/ 31s. There are a lot of grades here and I often feel like I am bogging it like a 2 stroke going up grades in the wrong gear. Driving in 3 on the hwy helps a bit.
Theoretical question: I get 15-16 on the hwy now w/ 31s and 3:54 gearing. If I go up to 4:56s to get more power when offroading w/ 33s, how do you think the MPG would be effected when using the 31s for commuting and having 4:56 gearing. I go not go over 70 on the hwy; so I know the revs will be high; but it is not like I will be doing 90 either.
Have fun with the radiator. The heater core went on my 97 TJ years back. I had to drive it up and back from NJ to VT for a ski trip in December with no heater. Was not a pleasant ride, and I was breathing on the winsheild and rubbing it with a fleece glove every few minutes while driving in the evening. But I was able to drive a manual jeep with ski boots on during day on that trip - try that in a honda. Gotta love jeeps.
I do not have a welder; but this is something I plan to research and invest in within the next year or so. Nothing big; but I do want one with some of the more "automatic" features I seem some come with. I will wait to re-do the axle mounts until I have some more experience with welding.
I purchased a brake hardware kit from NAPA and a set of new U bolts yesterday when I was passing by the company that made my lift.
The paint job is pretty shotty. So I assume it did not look pretty for him to paint the axle as he did. Is it worth grinding the shaft and housing down with a wire brush grinder attachment to bring it to a bare steel finish, and then re-painting it? If it was not painted in the first place I probably would have just bolted it up; but since it has a half ass job on it now, I am more prone to re-doing it. Not so much as to make it look all pretty. But there are places where he painted over dirt I can see in tight crevices. I wonder if he just brusted off the axle and slopped on some paint.
I have a lot of other stuff this weekend to do; but I really want to start working on the axle this weekend.
I checked out dial indicators at NAPA yesterday. They had them at $24 - $40. Am I looking at the wrong type of dial indicator for gearing. I thought htey would be mroe expensice. Looked like a turkey thermometer from the picture on the monitor.
I am going to leave the gearing as is for now while the jeep is also serving as a DD. At some point, I would like to re-gear; but probably not for a year or so. I must say though, I put 31 BFG ATs on for commuting as I have been driving back and forth to LA and Orange County a lot the last monh. The power really sux even w/ 31s. There are a lot of grades here and I often feel like I am bogging it like a 2 stroke going up grades in the wrong gear. Driving in 3 on the hwy helps a bit.
Theoretical question: I get 15-16 on the hwy now w/ 31s and 3:54 gearing. If I go up to 4:56s to get more power when offroading w/ 33s, how do you think the MPG would be effected when using the 31s for commuting and having 4:56 gearing. I go not go over 70 on the hwy; so I know the revs will be high; but it is not like I will be doing 90 either.
Have fun with the radiator. The heater core went on my 97 TJ years back. I had to drive it up and back from NJ to VT for a ski trip in December with no heater. Was not a pleasant ride, and I was breathing on the winsheild and rubbing it with a fleece glove every few minutes while driving in the evening. But I was able to drive a manual jeep with ski boots on during day on that trip - try that in a honda. Gotta love jeeps.
Oh.. that is what you meant
The parking brake makes sense. As for the rest, before you put it on, I would cut off the shock mounts and weld them on 2" higher to get more ground clearance. I cut mine offwith a sawzall and welded them even with the bottom of the axle tube. I now run stock shocks in the rear with a 6" lift. It works well. You will need a good welder though.
Besides that, buy new u bolts. Never reuse u bolts.
The pictures looked like it had fresh paint, so that is done.
I bet you are excited. I am replacing a leaky radiator. I ran it empty on a winter run a few weeks ago. The heater core emptied. The whole family froze, but the jeep was overheating. It will be good to get that off the list.
-BC
Besides that, buy new u bolts. Never reuse u bolts.
The pictures looked like it had fresh paint, so that is done.
I bet you are excited. I am replacing a leaky radiator. I ran it empty on a winter run a few weeks ago. The heater core emptied. The whole family froze, but the jeep was overheating. It will be good to get that off the list.
-BC
Got the D 44
Hey Brian - I got the 44. My goal is to get it on the Jeep within the next 2 months... The gears all look fine what I can tell, no chipped/worn teeth. The brake conversion is not exactly what I had expected though. The disp capilars are mounted on there. However the rotors are hung over the old drum brakes. They are just sitting on the lug bolts and held snug by an old set of worn drums. Does this sound fishy? Otherewsie the axle looks straight from what I can see. Only one scar on the back diff cover - not big enough to have done any damege to the gears inside.
While I have the axle off, what are some things I can do to overhaul the axle without needing special tools. Or should I just clean the diff housinig, bolt it back together, and fill it - and wait till I re-gear both axles to go through it completely.
Do you know if my current rear drum ABS sensors will work with this conversions. The disk brakes were from a 98 Grand D35. If not, I will need to disconnect the dash bulb to pass inspection.
I have a feeling that when I go to connect these 2 brake systems, I may have a few more questions.
Thanks.
While I have the axle off, what are some things I can do to overhaul the axle without needing special tools. Or should I just clean the diff housinig, bolt it back together, and fill it - and wait till I re-gear both axles to go through it completely.
Do you know if my current rear drum ABS sensors will work with this conversions. The disk brakes were from a 98 Grand D35. If not, I will need to disconnect the dash bulb to pass inspection.
I have a feeling that when I go to connect these 2 brake systems, I may have a few more questions.
Thanks.
Gear debate
I'll let you know how it goes.
any idea of what type of mpg he gets with the 4:88s and 35s? When I do regear, I have been considering 4:88. Most of the prople doing Jeepspeed go 5:13 and lower! But they get 6 mpgs and a few thousand mile on the engine per rebuild. I am not looking to go that fast.
any idea of what type of mpg he gets with the 4:88s and 35s? When I do regear, I have been considering 4:88. Most of the prople doing Jeepspeed go 5:13 and lower! But they get 6 mpgs and a few thousand mile on the engine per rebuild. I am not looking to go that fast.
Pics came in
Yeah, the paint does look nice. AS friend of mine did that same brake conversion for about $450 IN PARTS. It looks like a smart deal to me. I have always run 3.55s. The throttle response off of the line could be better, but that helps me save my tires. A different friend who owns my old 99XJ(now on 35s with 488gears burns through a set of tires each year, and he rotates them literally every month.
New Prospect
Hey Brian - Well I may have found an even better deal for the XJ. I found the followign 44 on Craigslist tonight - sounds like the conversion you did. Seems like a good price for me to get a 44 with teh same lousy 3:54 grears I am currently running on my Jeep. This way I can leave the front as is until I have the $ to re-do both axles with lower gears and a locker. :
I HAVE FOR SALE A DANA 44 FROM 87 CHEROKEE WITH 3.54 GEAR RATIO AND OPEN,THE WHEEL PATTERN IS 5X4.5,AND IS THE PERFECT UPGRADE FOR UR XJ,MJ,YJ AND TJ WITH SOME MODS,I DO THE BRAKE SWAP FOLLOWING ALL THIS STEPS FROM THAT 2 SITES
http://www.stu-offroad.com/suspension/d44brake/bc-1.htm
http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/BAzjRearDiscsOnXJ/ZJrearDiscsOnXJ.htm
THE BRAKE ROTORS ARE BRAND NEW,THAT DIFF ONLY NEED OIL,AND BRAKE PADS,AND THE BOM NUMBER IS 605342-3,AND THE PRICE IS 600 DLLS OR BEST OFFER(BUT DONT TRY TO OFFER LESS THAN 550),AND I HAVE OTHER DANA 44 FROM COMANCHE FOR 400 BUCKS
MORE INFO
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axle/YJdana44/
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axle/xj_dana44_02/
I HAVE FOR SALE A DANA 44 FROM 87 CHEROKEE WITH 3.54 GEAR RATIO AND OPEN,THE WHEEL PATTERN IS 5X4.5,AND IS THE PERFECT UPGRADE FOR UR XJ,MJ,YJ AND TJ WITH SOME MODS,I DO THE BRAKE SWAP FOLLOWING ALL THIS STEPS FROM THAT 2 SITES
http://www.stu-offroad.com/suspension/d44brake/bc-1.htm
http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/BAzjRearDiscsOnXJ/ZJrearDiscsOnXJ.htm
THE BRAKE ROTORS ARE BRAND NEW,THAT DIFF ONLY NEED OIL,AND BRAKE PADS,AND THE BOM NUMBER IS 605342-3,AND THE PRICE IS 600 DLLS OR BEST OFFER(BUT DONT TRY TO OFFER LESS THAN 550),AND I HAVE OTHER DANA 44 FROM COMANCHE FOR 400 BUCKS
MORE INFO
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axle/YJdana44/
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axle/xj_dana44_02/
All options to get a D-44 under teh XJ
Check out this article.
Adapting the axle will be work, but it is not impossible. In order to keep it affordable, you just need to play smart.
Think of it like this: You are getting a 300 axle that needs $450 worth of gears and $300 worth of work to make it fit under your jeep. Then you are talking about an OX locker that will run you another $650 or so. Then you should think about the bolt pattern for the wheels. The article says that they are using a new one for the JK. That might mean that you will need to spend another 250 on new alloy shafts for the housing.
The junk yard deal looks better and better. You can usually pay the core charge and then get your cash back if you give them back your old axle. It is not like you will need it any more.
The grinder, and a sawzall will do the job. You don't need a plasma. Hell, most of them wouldn't cut metal that thick anyhow. Buy good cutoff wheels and blades for the saw. Try to cut off large pieces, then grind away the small bits and finish the tubes off for the new perches. The MAP gas torch is basically useless on a Jeep, but a good set of torches (small size tanks with regulators and cutting head) is affordable. You don't deal with too much rust, but they are a godsend to have on hand if you meet stubborn bolts. There is a reason they call it the "Heat Wrench" They really work.
Low pinion gears are different. A new set will run you the same price as a new high pinion housing from a junk yard. You should consider looking for a high mileage or wrecked Jeep (97-99) for parts. If the body or interior is hurt, you can get them for a song, pull your parts, and then recycle the carcass. Places around here will pick them up on a roll-back for free just for the scrap. That would give you a spare set of axles, transfer case, tranny, sensors, etc... if you are smart about it, you can get thousands of dollars of parts for a few hundred cash, then recycle the rest for a few hundred dollars.
as for setting up gears, the dial indicator is standard to determine basklash. the shims come with new gears. Basically, you put it together one way, check, take it apart, then add or remove shims. It is a lot of trial and error. Yes the one tool would work for all axles. They have a magnetic base and attach to all housings (maybe with a clamp for aluminum center sections?)
aren't Jeeps fun?
Adapting the axle will be work, but it is not impossible. In order to keep it affordable, you just need to play smart.
Think of it like this: You are getting a 300 axle that needs $450 worth of gears and $300 worth of work to make it fit under your jeep. Then you are talking about an OX locker that will run you another $650 or so. Then you should think about the bolt pattern for the wheels. The article says that they are using a new one for the JK. That might mean that you will need to spend another 250 on new alloy shafts for the housing.
The junk yard deal looks better and better. You can usually pay the core charge and then get your cash back if you give them back your old axle. It is not like you will need it any more.
The grinder, and a sawzall will do the job. You don't need a plasma. Hell, most of them wouldn't cut metal that thick anyhow. Buy good cutoff wheels and blades for the saw. Try to cut off large pieces, then grind away the small bits and finish the tubes off for the new perches. The MAP gas torch is basically useless on a Jeep, but a good set of torches (small size tanks with regulators and cutting head) is affordable. You don't deal with too much rust, but they are a godsend to have on hand if you meet stubborn bolts. There is a reason they call it the "Heat Wrench" They really work.
Low pinion gears are different. A new set will run you the same price as a new high pinion housing from a junk yard. You should consider looking for a high mileage or wrecked Jeep (97-99) for parts. If the body or interior is hurt, you can get them for a song, pull your parts, and then recycle the carcass. Places around here will pick them up on a roll-back for free just for the scrap. That would give you a spare set of axles, transfer case, tranny, sensors, etc... if you are smart about it, you can get thousands of dollars of parts for a few hundred cash, then recycle the rest for a few hundred dollars.
as for setting up gears, the dial indicator is standard to determine basklash. the shims come with new gears. Basically, you put it together one way, check, take it apart, then add or remove shims. It is a lot of trial and error. Yes the one tool would work for all axles. They have a magnetic base and attach to all housings (maybe with a clamp for aluminum center sections?)
aren't Jeeps fun?
www.4wheeloffroad.com
Check out this complete axle assembly for your Jeep Wrangler JK or TJ you can get for cheap inside 4Wheel & Off-Road Magazine.
Thinking again about the deal
Thanks Brian. Considering the work that I would need to do to the D44 do you think this is a good deal at $300 or would I be better off finding a 44 from an XJ. A local junk yard wants 750 (w core which is an issue in itself since this is my DD) for a D44 with 3:55s, which would allow me to not need to re-do my front until I want to put new gears in both the front and rear. I have a good grinder; and a lot of patience, but not a plasma cutter. I do have a MAP gas torch; but I do not think that is the type of torch you are referring to.
Would a set of gears from a D30 with a low pinion fit into the carrier of a D30 with a high pinion? Or will I need a new carrier - this is the case, I do not know if it is worth me buying the D30 for the extra $100 to get the matching 3:73 gears for the $300 D44.
Is the dial indicator and shims the only tools I will need to set the gears? Would the same dial indicator be used for the D44 and D30? If so, that may not be the worst purchase for me in the long run since I do not have the $ to do the locker and gears the way I would really like at this time.
Thanks again for your help!
Would a set of gears from a D30 with a low pinion fit into the carrier of a D30 with a high pinion? Or will I need a new carrier - this is the case, I do not know if it is worth me buying the D30 for the extra $100 to get the matching 3:73 gears for the $300 D44.
Is the dial indicator and shims the only tools I will need to set the gears? Would the same dial indicator be used for the D44 and D30? If so, that may not be the worst purchase for me in the long run since I do not have the $ to do the locker and gears the way I would really like at this time.
Thanks again for your help!
KJ D-44 in an XJ
This link will take you to find the spring perches. http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=rustys&Category_Code=BP-B_S
The rest is a semi-big job. I tried once to cut off a XJ D-30 coil perches for a project. It worked using a grinder and torches, but it took forever, and the axle wasn't very pretty at the end. I did get the perches of in nice shape though. I would suppose that it would work in your favor the other way around.
If I were doing it, I would clean the tubes of the old brackets, then stick it under your springs and adjust the nose for optimal driveline angles. I am not sure, but I think that you will need a new driveshaft end to mate with the axle's flange. Then weld it on. Any capable 4x4 shop should be able to do it pretty quickly, but I'd bet they will charge you quite a bit for the service. it will be more affordable if all you are paying for is the welding, and all of the other fitting is done for them.
As for the gears, I would have the shop set up the front end while the Jeep is there. They are not awful, but the dial indicator itself is a hundred-dollar tool, so if you are not doing them often, buying it might not make sense. Though, if you are going to put in an OX locker later, and then regear as well... it might be a good purchase.
I am excited for your find, but watch out. The job might take the Jeep out of commission for a few days right in the middle of wheeling season. I would run what you have and get the rest prepped for one big trip to the Jeep Spa later on this year.
Good luck with it.
-bc
The rest is a semi-big job. I tried once to cut off a XJ D-30 coil perches for a project. It worked using a grinder and torches, but it took forever, and the axle wasn't very pretty at the end. I did get the perches of in nice shape though. I would suppose that it would work in your favor the other way around.
If I were doing it, I would clean the tubes of the old brackets, then stick it under your springs and adjust the nose for optimal driveline angles. I am not sure, but I think that you will need a new driveshaft end to mate with the axle's flange. Then weld it on. Any capable 4x4 shop should be able to do it pretty quickly, but I'd bet they will charge you quite a bit for the service. it will be more affordable if all you are paying for is the welding, and all of the other fitting is done for them.
As for the gears, I would have the shop set up the front end while the Jeep is there. They are not awful, but the dial indicator itself is a hundred-dollar tool, so if you are not doing them often, buying it might not make sense. Though, if you are going to put in an OX locker later, and then regear as well... it might be a good purchase.
I am excited for your find, but watch out. The job might take the Jeep out of commission for a few days right in the middle of wheeling season. I would run what you have and get the rest prepped for one big trip to the Jeep Spa later on this year.
Good luck with it.
-bc
rustysoffroad.com
We design and build custom off-road components for the Jeep line of vehicles. Whether you�re looking to add a little lift to your Grand Cherokee or building a monster rock-rig out of your Wrangler, we've got the TRAIL TESTED TOUGH parts that you need. ...
New D-44 for XJ
Hey Brian - I am stoked, I found a way for me to get a 44 under the jeep for a cheap price! It will not be the be all end all of the axle; but I will be able to get it under the jeep for a cheap price considering it is a 44. Since I did get a nice bonus from the company this year; though not enough to purchase another reliable daily driver, I decided to put a set of 31 BFG ATs on the Jeep for commuting with the jeep. The manager of the local Discount Tire shop has a sick 2006 Jeep Unlimited on 37s. So while waiting, I was talking with him about the redicilious 44s he had on the LJ. He offered to sell me the rear stock 44 set up for disks; but with all of the disk parts removed - so I should just need capilars, rotors, and pads. I am not sure about what I will need to do to convert the brake lines from the ABS 35 to this 44 though. D44 with 3:73 gears for $300 and teh front D30 for another $100 so I can put the gears into my 30 and have extra 30 parts for breakage. My current gears are 3:55 and the honestly suck even w/ 31s. The D44 has posi lock. Which I think is automatic internal mechinish triggered to work as a limited slip so I will use this system with junkyard brake capilars until I can afford to have another daily driver and regear the axles for something a bit more ideal for 33s not with the DD status. I am thinking 4:88s with a OX locker; but not for a few years or when the next bonus comes around. Where I wheel/camp is 2 hrs away; so I like the idea of having a worth axle in the rear when I am using the 44s, even if it is not with the most powerfull gearing yet.
D44 - I will also need to cut off the spring perches and have leaf munts welded on. I am assuming I can cut the spring perches with a grinder as I do not have a plasma cutter. I also do not have a welder; so I will need to have the welding done by a shop. Do you know if any of the auto shops rent or loan tools to set the gears on a 30 and 44? Do you know anything about how a TJ/LJ D44 shock mounts would compare to the shock mounts locations needed for the XJ? It sure would be nice if the stock locations would work; but if not, I would assume that welding shock munts on would not be that big of a deal; but I am not sure where I would find the part that would do it?
D44 - I will also need to cut off the spring perches and have leaf munts welded on. I am assuming I can cut the spring perches with a grinder as I do not have a plasma cutter. I also do not have a welder; so I will need to have the welding done by a shop. Do you know if any of the auto shops rent or loan tools to set the gears on a 30 and 44? Do you know anything about how a TJ/LJ D44 shock mounts would compare to the shock mounts locations needed for the XJ? It sure would be nice if the stock locations would work; but if not, I would assume that welding shock munts on would not be that big of a deal; but I am not sure where I would find the part that would do it?
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